Wednesday, 7 November 2018

The much anticipated day arrived to view the Women’s History Archives at the great Ewha University, the largest educational institution for women in the world. The campus ranges over many hills (you might call them mountains). and those girls and women surely get all the exercise they need just walking between classes. The campus is attractively planned and planted, and it must be as stunning in the spring as it is on this fall day when I visited.

The archives are housed in a reconstructed traditional Korean house with beautiful wood everywhere. But it seemed a wasted long morning offering me no information, certainly that I did not already know from the internet. 

In the afternoon, my research quest was happily redeemed during my visit to the Seoul History Museum. As with all the municipal buildings, the Museum is a new and cutting edge architectural wonder, inside and out, sensitive to human need for clean beautiful space – but spaces difficult to photograph – so much glass and glare – but beautiful to be within. Excellent exhibitions, and exhibits and materials on Seoul in the nineteenth century. Isn’t that why I am here? As an American, it was gratifying to see Korea acknowledges the contributions of the Western missionaries and the advisors to the Joseon government, those who came to Seoul in the late nineteenth century. (It does not quite offset Theodore Roosevelt’s actions, but that is for another discussion.) Old photographs were carefully maintained. The staff was most helpful, and this museum visit alone has made my trip to Korea worthwhile. At night, which is when I left, for they are open until eight, that beautiful building glows.

                             

In Seoul, Koreans bump into you and never apologize. It seems to be their way. But all in all, I have found the Korean people in Seoul to be kind and always helpful when I needed directions. And I am always needing directions. Travel always brings surprises and the unexpected. The Seoul skyline at night is splendid.